clairedavieswriter

Having cycled into a headwind for 11 days and 800km, today, finally, the flags swung in my favour – smiley face indeed. I had some sympathy for the many cyclists coming in the other direction – teeth gritted, shoulders hunched, legs straining against the blast. We were all following the fantastic river Main cycle way:…

It was all go on the garage forecourt this morning (and indeed much of the night): But at least Bernard’s neighbours didn’t keep him awake The theme of today was incurring the wrath of Guillaume, because for whatever reason he seemed determined to route us onto main roads when the cycle network suggested otherwise. And…

From its circular shape on the map (suggesting an old, fortified settlement) and self-description as a festival and spa town, I’d expected more of Bad Hersfeld. But architecturally, the parts I saw were on a par with Basingstoke, with the exception of this lonely stone tower. However it turns out that I missed the town’s…

Today we left behind us the flat lands of northern Germany: it was time to cross a watershed to the valley of the river Fulda. And that could only mean one thing: Faced with such a challenge, the serious cyclist obviously thinks of fuel. And I’ve learned that, much like French boulangeries, German bäckerei are…

Einbeck was looking just as lovely in the early morning light as it had yesterday: The Altes Rathaus (old town hall) is like something out of a fairy tale: The main square was playing host to a weekly market this morning: This friendly chap, in a stream of unintelligible German (this is becoming something of…

I’m not going to sugarcoat it, the wind was hard going at times today. These guys were whizzing round: And on the many long, straight, exposed stretches it was brutal: The other challenge today was dodging the showers. I should say that I’m not a total fair weather cyclist: if it rains when I’m riding…

Over a substantial and wholesome supper last night (never let it be said I don’t take refuelling seriously): I realised I had missed one item off my must-see-in-Hannover list, so I nipped over to the Marktkirche to see its extraordinary front doors. Installed in 1959, they show unvarnished depictions of war, from the woman fleeing…

While enjoying a sustaining supper in the friendly local Italian last night, I calculated that Team Bernard have clocked up just over 400 miles since setting off on Tuesday. As usual, I won’t be breaking any speed records, but the pace has been perfect for me so far, allowing plenty of time to appreciate the…

I dined at the campsite restaurant last night. The place is Dutch-owned, and the tall, blond, very Dutch-looking server offered me a choice of mayo or ketchup with my fries, in a manner that suggested there was really only one correct answer. I chose diplomatically and just like that, we were friends. Though our new…

Several people have asked why I’ve chosen to camp. Trust me, as I was shivering in my inadequate sleeping bag at midnight, while rain pattered on the canvas, I was asking myself the same thing. I shall be investing in higher tog kit when I get home. But to answer the question – I’m doing…