clairedavieswriter

From its circular shape on the map (suggesting an old, fortified settlement) and self-description as a festival and spa town, I’d expected more of Bad Hersfeld. But architecturally, the parts I saw were on a par with Basingstoke, with the exception of this lonely stone tower.

However it turns out that I missed the town’s most important feature – a former monastery which is used as the venue for those festivals and is apparently Europe’s largest Romanesque church ruin.

According to Gloria Google, Bad Hersfeld also played an important role in the Cold War. Due to its strategic location in the Fulda Gap (which as I’m sure you’ll know – ahem, me neither – was historically used by invading armies), Bad Hersfeld was home to the northernmost American border garrison and was first line of defence against a Soviet invasion.

In the circumstances, hosting Pippi Langstrumpf seems a bit of a come down:

The town’s bäckerei was bustling on this grey, wet morning. Once again, I wondered how people’s work schedules allow them to sit and enjoy coffee and pastries at 9am. Whatever their secret is, I think we should import it to the UK. In fact, I’d import the whole bakery culture, because as I watched the cheerful staff greeting and serving customers, it struck me that for someone living alone, this daily interaction might make all the difference. We just don’t have a regular equivalent at home.

Oh, and my Schokobrötchen was a cut above yesterday’s:

The forecast was clear that there would be no dodging the rain today, so I dressed accordingly. And once you embrace getting wet, it isn’t too bad: you just have to trust your kit. So I was pleased I’d re-proofed my jacket and waterproof shorts. And while the showers were more prolonged than yesterday, they were never torrential, and the air was much less chilly so I was never uncomfortable

Team Bernard spent the day on the Fulda cycleway, which seemed quite popular, though everyone else was sensibly heading in the opposite direction (ie downstream and downwind). I passed about a dozen other tourers, almost all on e-bikes, including the first lone woman, but again, none stopped to chat.

Try as I might, I didn’t spot an otter in the Fulda:

But I was excited to catch sight of a red squirrel in these beech woods

And I enjoyed the absolute indifference of this stork parent to his youngster’s first attempts at flight

The locals living close to the cycle path have embraced the business opportunities it brings. This was tempting, but 10.30 seemed a bit early, even on holiday:

On a warmer day, I might have taken advantage of the cold drinks offered in this cute little honesty shop in someone’s back garden:

And I loved this brilliant cyclists’ shelter perched above the trail, which looked like a treehouse from the outside, and felt like a bird hide from the inside because of the view it offered across the fields:

It also provided free electricity to charge bikes and gadgets, and another honesty box for drinks and snacks

This lighthearted tribute to the local fire brigade seemed to be just for fun. I’ve noticed that even tiny villages seem to have a station, manned on a volunteer basis. Word of the day: freiwillig

Even on a wet day, you can appreciate painterly touches in the landscape:

And sometimes, the rain creates them:

Other highlights included this signpost with distances to onward destinations. I’ll be passing through Würzburg the day after tomorrow:

Obviously I have to mention the quality of the tarmac again: this is just for bikes (and the occasional tractor)!

I’d thought the town of Fulda might be a highlight, but unfortunately it was playing host to Hessentag – confusingly, not just a day (tag), but a week-long festival celebrating all things Hessen (the region of Essen)

Which caused havoc with Guillaume’s planned routes and blocked the best view of the town’s imposing Dom

But I did manage to capture it from the side:

Speaking of striking buildings, I’ll end with a shot of my accommodation in Eichenzell. I’d thought my spartan single room above a Turkish restaurant last night would be hard to beat, but I think you’ll agree my hotel-in-a-petrol-station goes one further. As you can see, it has a restaurant on site, which turned out to be Italian, good and popular. Judging by their attire and appetites, I have a feeling most of the other guests are cyclists:

And what, I hear you ask, can I see from my bedroom window? I think that’s what you call a 4-star view: