clairedavieswriter

The frogs did indeed quit their croaking as the sun went down, and Team Bernard spent a peaceful night beside the river Seille, until we were woken by randy pigeons just after 6. Besides us, there were just three motorhomes on this simple municipal site, only one of which showed signs of life as I…

Today could have been quite different – that is to say, quite unpleasant. I awoke to the sound of rain hammering against the windows, and again thanked my lucky stars that this tiny village had a hotel, and that they’d let me stay, even when they were closed (till Wednesday it turns out). In hindsight,…

Today I acquired my second domestique of the tour, and he really went above and beyond the job description. First, he applied his expert knowledge to my routes, thereby mitigating the wilder eccentricities of the Garmin brothers over the next two days. Then, crucially, he whisked me over the fearsome Col de La Faucille, which…

After the exertions and solitude of the Auvergne, this weekend has been the perfect contrast. While Bernard put his feet up, I have enjoyed a bit of tourism: A bit of history: A few relatable sights: Plenty of good food and wine, including back across the border in France… And above all, time with old…

The second leg of my triangular odyssey – the bit I’d been most nervous about (with some justification, it turns out) is complete. My original plan had been to knock out a 100k ride into Lyon today, to catch a train to Geneva. By yesterday evening it was clear this was highly optimistic. Instead, I…

Well that was pretty epic. I knew I was in for some climbing, but without doubt the Auvergne saved its full experience till last – it’s the most I’ve ever climbed in a day, Lejog included, despite the distance being well within my normal range. Honestly, with the hills and the heat, it felt twice…

Today was another opportunity to play that old Auvergne party game “How Green is your Valley” and its essential companion, “How Steep are your Hills”. For fun, we also had a go at “How Hot is your Afternoon “. The correct answer to the first was: very green indeed. Fortunately for me, the answer to…

Never heard of some of these places I’m staying in? Neither had I. It’s one of the joys / curiosities / eccentricities of a ride like this from A to B, where the intermediate points are just a means to an end: you find yourself in some very random spots. Talizat was a hard-scrabble hamlet…

Seldom have the words “I’m taking the bus replacement service” sounded so good. Overnight, I had reflected further on my seasoned cyclist hosts’ undisguised horror that I was planning to pedal through Le Lioran on the main road. To put it mildly, they didn’t think it would be much fun – and that was without…

After yesterday’s fun and games, I extracted a promise from Guillaume that we would ride only on tarmac. He was good to his word, but failed to warn me about the 6k of climbing straight out of the gate. Fortunately, it was a steady incline, and Bernard, fresh from a comfortable night in the hotel…