clairedavieswriter

If I’ve learned one thing since my first solo ride, from Land’s End to John O’Groats in 2021, it’s that I need to eat more. To this day I don’t know how I got over Exmoor fuelled by little more than a mini packet of chocolate buttons and a jam sandwich. Yes Rob, you were right all along. Though it’s fair to say that today I may have overcompensated. Just 20k after my usual breakfast of muesli, fruit and yoghurt, I pulled into Marina’s Cafe in Donegal and despatched this (honestly, it was bigger than it looks: I’m guessing at least four eggs):

30k later, I had room for lunch. I’ve never thought of combining tuna and mayonnaise with melted cheese in a hot toastie before, but it was surprisingly tasty. Though it’s possible I would have eaten anything at that point

A mid afternoon banana was consumed out of sight of the cameras, but at 70k I was ready for that now-ubiquitous seasonal snack, the HCB (or in this case, CCB). Say what you like about Johnny Come Lately versions like the Apple and Cinnamon – I still think the original is the best. Though it’s possible I may not want to see another one for a while after this trip

And on arrival, after 96.5k on the road, what other refreshment could anyone need other than a cup of builder’s tea?

All this is to say that, despite my trepidation prior to setting out, today’s ride turned out to be much less arduous than I’d expected. Obviously it helped that the sun shone, from the first few miles to Donegal:

To the last stretch along the banks of the river Foyle:

But once again it was the scenery that really lifted the spirits, even when it required extra effort from the legs:

And as always, a touring cyclist has time to appreciate nature at close quarters. I particularly enjoyed my first sighting of bluebells this year:

The scent of sun-warm gorse

And these beautiful little white bells growing in the verges – does anyone know what they are?

It also helped that I was only on a main road very briefly, and even then there was a treat in store

Biddy O’Barnes describes itself as ‘one of the first licensed establishments in Donegal when it opened 150 years ago’ and ‘a haven for weary travellers’. It is clearly something of a local institution, in the manner of the Crask Inn north of Lairg. It was also a good place to rendezvous for a coffee with my travelling photographer

I needed the caffeine for the next testing uphill stretch on that main road. There were no other options for getting through this pass

But soon afterwards Team Bernard were out in the wilds again, pedalling through a vast area of blanket bog, the silence broken only by birdsong

Other highlights today include a spot of mutual bicycle appreciation at Alexander’s Coffee Loft in Ballybofey (see tuna toastie, above):

This town actually welcomed solo travellers too

And they were very proud of their history

History of another kind was evident in this memorial in Stranorlar

And in this pedestrian and cycle bridge over the Foyle in Londonderry, whose design had echoes for me of the Light Crossing in Nijmegen

We’re taking a day off tomorrow to visit the city and learn more. Meanwhile, Bernard is snuggled up securely with Colin in Midge’s garage. Which is directly under our bed, so I hope they behave