clairedavieswriter

Team Bernard were feeling a little weary this morning. The lads had spent the night out in the rain.

And it’s possible we are feeling the cumulative effect of many miles pedalled. Or our fatigue may have had something to do with the fact that our room overlooked a very popular student bar. Over breakfast, we learned that, not only is Thursday night student party night (because they tend to go home for the weekend), but also this is the time of year when they celebrate Queima-das-fitas (literally burning the ribbons), aka graduation. When we set off, the last stragglers had only just gone home, bless them

Despite our bleary state, on the way out of town, we tried to make up for our failure to explore last night. But did I mention that Coimbra is hilly?

There are even outdoor lifts

Which all makes sightseeing rather difficult with loaded bicycles. But we did catch some enticing glimpses – we’ll simply have to come back another time

We appreciated the cycle infrastructure that kept us out of the heavy commuter traffic, though it was devilishly well hidden – ten points to Guillaume for leading us unerringly to the river

And back onto the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Judging by the steady stream of pilgrims we passed, Coimbra is a popular starting point.

As always, the way was marked with easily spotted yellow arrows and shells

And, as befits such a the humble endeavour, when it came to support vehicles, every expense had been spared

The few walking in the other direction were heading towards this Portuguese place of pilgrimage, also known as Our Lady of Fatima, where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to three small children in 1917

Team Bernard’s guardian angel was with us again today when the heavens opened, conjuring up this handy shelter

And as non-pilgrim souls, we admired the secular charms of this tile-fronted church

And sought refreshment in this similarly decorated bar

Traditional tiles also featured in many of the street signs – this one commemorated Portugal’s Carnation Revolution of 1974

And we learned that this grandly named Royal Road has long formed part of the pilgrimage route to Santiago

Landscape-wise, today was much more mixed, with a lot of small holdings. The state seems to keep a close eye on things: this sign appeared to specify the maximum number of livestock permitted in the field – 6 horses and 60 sheep

Our one significant climb was rewarded with a spectacular view towards an intimidating set of hills that I frankly hope we never have to climb

Unlike previous days, we were rarely out of sight of buildings. This farmstead in the middle of a vineyard was at the grander end of the scale

Tonight we’re in a lovely restored Auberge in the little town of Albergaria. Bernard and Colin were very excited to learn that, as we pedal out tomorrow, we will be blazing a trail for Sunday’s 4th stage of the Portuguese Women’s Cycling Cup. That’s what we’re telling them anyway. Personally, I’m more excited that we’re heading to the seaside, and a long weekend in Porto