clairedavieswriter

So what was it like? I hear you say.

There are so many highlights, it’s hard to pick favourites. For me, it would be the epic scale of the scenery, under cloud-dotted skies.

Jonis picked the silence, high on the meseta on a windless morning. From our vantage point, you couldn’t see a single building, let alone a village, and there wasn’t a sound, aside from the occasional trill of a lark.

Obviously, there were challenges, like the 10,016m we climbed overall, saving the toughest ascent till the last day

And there were hardships, like the penetrating rain of Vizcaya

And the cold, which meant we were still wearing long sleeves much further south than we’d expected.

According to news reports, the unseasonably freezing temperatures had damaged crops and threatened livelihoods across the country, which rather put our own discomforts in perspective. And cooler temperatures or overcast skies generally made for easier cycling, so we couldn’t complain

We were confirmed hispanophiles before this trip, and we enjoyed how our route allowed us to revisit some favourite places and add some new ones

With more of that incredible scenery in between

We’ve loved the care taken by Spanish drivers, even when they weren’t told to look out for us

And the often unexpected sections of excellent cycle paths

Though there were the occasional frustrations…

And some spots where the execution didn’t quite match the ambition

We’ve appreciated the excellent coffee (the sign reads, ‘Without coffee I’m no-one’)

And the wine (at €3 a glass), sherry, beer…it’s important to keep the strength and spirits up. Mahou’s ‘toasted’ lager (darker than the beer in the glass) was a welcome discovery, as good without alcohol as with

But most of all, we’ve enjoyed just being back in Spain. For the everyday courtesies (a new arrival to a cafe saying good morning to everyone already there), the can-do customer service approach (‘Yes I can make you fresh tortilla sandwiches to takeaway,’ says the lady in a busy bar at coffee time. ‘Would you like them with tomato?’), and the rhythm of life. It turns out the world doesn’t end if you close your shop at lunchtime and on a Sunday. And if you live in Salamanca, why wouldn’t you go for an evening aperitif in a setting as gorgeous as this?

Importantly, Jonis still seems to think this cycle touring lark is a good idea. Best get cracking with Portugal then. Find us here again tomorrow, as we get ready to set off from Faro